There are no easy access ( or escape ) routes to the panch pokhari ( five small lakes ) ensconced at the head of the spectacularly beautiful Hongu Valley.
The normal approach begins with a white-knuckle landing at the tiny, sloping airstrip at Lukla perched half-way up a steep mountainside above the deep, dark gorge of the Dudh Khosi. ( For those without recent high-altitude experience the traditional walk-in from the roadhead at Jiri, or, the less frequented back-door route from the Arun Valley over the Salpa Pass, is advisable. )
Directly above Lukla the 4000 metre high Zatrwa La gives access to the tranquil yak pastures of the Hinku Valley dominated by the towering cliffs of Mera Peak and the equally impressive Peak 43 ( Kyashar ).
 Peak 43 /
Kyashar
from the Hinku Valley |
On route from the cluster of yak herders' huts at Tangnag at the head of the valley to the glacial, high pass of Mera La the increasing altitude enforced many halts but these allowed time for a full appreciation of Thamserku and the spectacular spire of its South-East Peak. Some 100 metres below the col of the Mera La, a set of gravel beds provides a sheltered site for a base camp ensconced beneath the extensive snow slopes of Nau Lekh.
 Thamserku
on crossing Mera La |
Jubilant with our success I descended through the swirling spindrift from the summit of Mera Peak ( 6461m ) with Horst and Lal Bahadur our climbing sirdar., In the far distance below, nestling at the foot of the sheer, ice-and-rock walls of the massive south-west face of Chamlang , lay the grey, narrow, forbidding confines of the Hongu Valley. Access to this remote, uninhabited, himalayan mountain-fastness is normally via high, snow-covered passes although there is supposedly an obscure and difficult low-level route from the south ( described in Mera Peak & Island Peak ).
Our plan for the days ahead was to drop to the valley floor and follow the Hongu Khola northwards to the wild and rugged Panch Pokhari at the valleyhead and then return westwards across the difficult Mingbo La high pass to familiar territory in the Solo Khumbu.
 Everest
on ascent of Mera Peak |
Nearing our high camp on an icy platform in the shelter of a rocky outcrop ( c5800m ) we paused for a final appreciation of the tremendous himalayan panorama extending before us. Ranged along the northern horizon beneath clear azure skies were five of the world's 8000ers; Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest and Cho Oyu. In the foreground unfolded a profusion of splendid shapely summits - many we could identify from previous expeditions but many more we could not.
Next morning after a leisurely start we set off from our base camp beneath the snow slopes of the Mera La ( c5414m ) across a band of bare rock beds . Rough scree slopes then led down into a wide sandy basin followed by a gentle descent over green, grassy hillsides to a pleasant campsite beside a sparkling stream in a meadow beneath the imposing cliffs of the nameless Peak 41 ( the "other" Mera, c6654m ).
From the meadow a faint trail climbed abruptly to a small lochan before contouring along the steep rugged hillside still high above the Hongu Khola. On its eastern flank the narrow valley was overhung by the immense precipices of Chamlang, a fine 7000 metre mountain, and on its western flank by those of Peak 41.
 Chamlang
on descent from Mera La into the Hongu Valley |
Bringing up the rear of our party I was suddenly startled by a commotion ahead. Something - or someone - was falling down the steep hillside. I watched in alarm as the rapidly rotating bundle crashed down the slope jettisoning bits and pieces as it went. Fortunately it was only a doko ( a conical wickerwork basket ). Lalu, our kitchenboy, had stumbled on the rough terrain and to save himself had slipped off his namro ( headstrap ) to release his load. Everything was recovered except a rolling pin - an essential implement for making the ubiquitous chapattis.
The track gradually dropped to the rippling waters of the river where we encamped on the banks amidst fragrant azaleas and shrub juniper overlooked by the high, enclosing mountains.
Further progress up the impressive, unspoilt valley was made the following day. Near the head of a frozen lake we reached the base camp of a French expedition hoping to climb Baruntse, another fine 7000 metre summit, but beset with problems. Two of their members were suffering from AMS ( acute mountain sickness ) and their high-altitude porters had failed to arrive.
 Camp beneath
Peak 41
in Hongu Valley |
We continued for a short distance before pitching our tents in the boulder-strewn tundra now beneath the elegant, ice-fluted summit of Chonku Chuli ( aka Pyramid Peak / Hongchu Chuli, c6809m ).
In the evening the surrounding tops flamed red in the final rays of the setting sun whilst cheerful singing emanated from the tent of our happy-go-lucky band of Sherpas.
"Good morning uncle", greeted Lalu bringing my early morning bed-tea. "Tikcha?" ( is everything OK? ). A similar greeting evoked a series of grunts and groans from the neighbouring tent. Horst was suffering from a headache and required a rest-day.
It was another fine, bright, sunny morning and I took the opportunity presented to set off with Singi, our sherpa ( assistant sirdar ) for a shapely rock peak rising above our campsite offering the prospects of an interesting climb and a good viewpoint.
A long, labourious grind up the lower, stony slopes eventually gained a broad ridgetop. To the west, across the valley, a fine view obtained of the broad, easy-angled but badly crevassed slopes of the Hinku Nup glacier leading up to the Mingbo La ( c5817m ) - our escape route back to the Everest Region. Above the col jutted the imposing obelisk of Ama Dablam ( c6856m ).
 Mingbo La and
Ama Dablam
from Rock Peak in Hongu Valley |
Continuing up the ridge frequent stops were made to admire the long, icy crest and fearsome north-west face of Chamlang soaring skywards immediately to our south. Our vantage point provided a proper perspective of the immense scale of such himalayan giants.
We traversed a rough scree slope to reach the foot of the considerably steeper conical crown of the rock peak. Although unladen with any climbing gear - even the daysac was being carried by Singi - I was finding it a hard struggle to make upward progress in the thin cold air, surprisingly more so than on Mera Peak when ice-axe, crampons and heavy climbing boots had been used. The top looked increasingly far off.
Great care had to be taken in negotiating a stretch of unstable rocks. I considered turning back. Any accident would have serious consequences. There was no prospect of any helicopter rescue from the isolated Hongu Valley. "Bestari, bestari", ( slowly, slowly ) urged Singi. However once across this hurdle a fine airy scramble over large, solid boulders, fatigue now forgotten, led to the nicely pointed summit ( c5800m ) and a dramatic outlook.
 Chonku Chuli
from rock peak |
Only a short distance away, looming above a glacier, was the spectacular, dazzling, ice-hung bulk of Chonku Chuli ( Pyramid Peak ). Northwards from Chonku Chuli the pale pink granite mass of Makalu ( 8463m ) protruded above the seemingly vertical snow walls of the West Col ( c6135m ). Further round soared the precipitous south-west rockface of Baruntse ( 7220m ) flanked by its satellite range of peaks.
 Hongu Panch
Pokhari
from Rock Peak |
Beneath us to the north we could see our route onwards through the harsh, glaciated terrain to the blue-grey lochans of the Panch Pokhari ensconced at the head of the bleak, barren valley beneath a high rugged escarpment breached by the hazardous Amphu Labtse ( c5780 metres ) - the most difficult of the possible escape routes from the Hongu Valley.
From our campsite the route climbed over tundra-covered hillocks beneath the mighty rock cliffs of the Hongu South Peak ( c6057m ), festooned with snow like feathered-icing on some gigantic cake, to the top of a lateral moraine then continued over the rough, jagged crest to the frozen tarns of the Panch Pokhari. On the approach we enjoyed a fine view across a glacier lake to the West Col rising sheer above extensive neves while ahead of us the black, banded, summits of Lhotse ( 8501m ) and Everest ( 8848m ) reared above the escarpment at the valleyhead but gradually disappeared as we got closer.
 Panch Pokhari
at the head of the Hongu Valley |
That night was the coldest of our expedition when the temperature plummeted to a bone-biting minus 25 degrees centigrade - the coldest night I have endured - and the ice-bound lakes and surrounding snow peaks gleamed ethereally in the pale, wan light of a crescent moon and star-spangled sky. In the profusion the familiar constellations of Cassiopea and Orion were difficult to discern.
After a fitful sleep I set off alone next morning in the welcome warmth of the sun to scale the higher of two, small rocky peaks rising to the east of the Panch Pokhari. An initial steep climb, made difficult only by the altitude, was followed by a long gradual ascent to the high point ( c5600m ) at the far end of the summit ridge.
In the profound eerie silence I surveyed the awesomely beautiful himalayan landscape. Towering directly overhead were the sheer, ice-bound walls of the formidable ridge extending from Baruntse. Prominent to the south were the massifs of Chamlang and Chonku Chuli - their complex features mirrored in the tranquil green waters of a nearby lochan. Along the western edge of the valley tumbling glaciers and high rock ramparts swept up from great moraines and scree slopes to culminate in lofty, snow-capped summits.
 Chonku Chuli,
rock peak and Chamlang
from above Hongu Panch Pokhari |
In the afternoon we retreated from the huge glacial amphitheatre and climbed into a side-valley to encamp at the lake beneath the Hunku Nup Glacier encircled by a ring of graceful peaks; Chamlang, Hongu South Peak and Ama Dablam.
There have been several fatalities on the 120 metre abseil of the steep, 70 degree, ice-flutings on the west side of the Mingbo La and it took us all afternoon, with one frightening moment when one porter lost his footing, to get our ten Sherpas safely down and across the bergshrund onto the level neve of the Nare Glacier where we encamped beneath the towering pyramid of Ama Dablam - a spectacular, isolated peak akin to the Matterhorn of the Swiss Alps.
 Ama Dablam
from camp beneath Mingbo La |
The sting in the tail of our trek was a tricky descent through the ice-fall at the snout of the glacier before we finally escaped from the himalayan fastness of the Hongu Valley.
Back at Lukla , Lal Bahadur and our intrepid band of Sherpas, who had enabled our journey through this seldom explored, high-altitude region, were well rewarded for their stalwart efforts. We had been fortunate to have had an excellent trekking crew and to enjoy perfect conditions for our memorable adventure.
( CLIMBER & Hillwalker, November 1991 )
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