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"Such Heavenly Pursuits"


Escaping to the freedom and challenges of the mountains from the constraints of the city has always been important to me. I have an urge to see over the next ridgetop or around the corner into the next valley. Attaining a summit, crossing a pass, or completing a journey always provides a measure of achievement.

My first forays were with the 24th Glasgow ( Bearsden ) Scouts ( whose illustrious leader Alec J. Spalding has recently been awarded an MBE ) and then extended, in all weathers and all seasons, to the far corners of Scotland, England, Wales and Ireland, with the aid of bicycles, canoes and skis to climb all the Munros.

Ladhar Bheinn from Barrisdale Bay, Scottish Highlands

Scotland

Alpine ascents also started with the 24th during their regular visits to Kandersteg in Switzerland and continued with the climbing of 30 snow peaks over 3000metres ( 15 over 4000m ) including the Eiger and Mont Blanc in Europe, Toubkal in the High Atlas and Elbert in in the Colorado Rockies.

On Toubkal in the High Atlas

High Atlas

Accounts of travels and ascents in the Himalaya have always been fascinating but it was only after dispensing with my post as senior lecturer in computer studies at Bell College of Technology in Hamilton that my first visit to Nepal became possible. Although I returned home in a sorry state with a fractured vertebra ( from a fall while washing my hair in a waterfall ) I was totally enthralled by my experiences in trekking around the Annapurna Himal and have returned every autumn for 12 years to Nepal.

Mt.Macchapucchre, The Fishtail Mountain, from Rakshi Peak above the Annapurna Sanctuary

Nepal Himalaya

In travelling and climbing around the world in five continents I have found nowhere else that rivals the attractions of the Nepal Himalaya. It is not only the awesome beauty of the highest mountains of the world, or the picturesque landscapes of the middle-hills but also the charm, tolerance and fortitude of the peoples of the high valleys: the Sherpas, Tamangs, Gurungs, Limbus, Rais, Magars et al.

Nima Lakpa Sherpa and the Gurja Himal, Dhaulagiri Region

Nepal Himalaya

Also important is the competence and reliability of the trekking crews - the organisational skills of the sirdars, the excellence of the cooks ( who can prepare a four course dinner in the middle of a glacier or at high camps at 20,000ft. ) the care and attention of the hard-working sherpas ( assistant sirdars ) and the stalwart porters - without them none of my treks would have been possible or so enjoyable.

Everest from high camp on Mera Peak, Nima Lakpa Sherpa

Nepal Himalaya

Most of my treks have been organised by the Highland Sherpa Agency in Kathmandu and it was through the managing director Ang Zangbu Sherpa that I was introduced to my friend Horst from Germany whose ambitions and enthusiasm ensured the success of our climbing treks to the Rolwaling and Hongu valleys.

I did not set out to trek the length of the Nepal Himalaya from Kangchenjunga to Dhaulagiri but having started I continued because there was, and still is, more that I wanted to see - their immensity is matched by their diversity. My kitbag and trekking gear remain with Highland Sherpa in Kathmandu awaiting my return.

( Introduction to “ Such Heavenly Pursuits “, The Glasgow Herald, 17th August 1996 )



Treks - 1989:


Alan Ingram could be forgiven for feeling entitled to a quiet and relaxing festive period. After all he had just returned from a three month trek through the Himalayas, which saw him swelter
through sub-tropical days and, at night, huddle for warmth in sub-zero temperatures around a yak dung fire. In between he managed to distribute £125 to needy communities, money which
had been raised from local people after we published an appeal in the Herald last year.

Back home in Bearsden’s North Grange Road, Alan said that the trip had gone according to plan and gave the Herald a copy of a report he has written of his three treks along
the rooftop of the world.
“It went well in that I managed all three treks and came back when I had planned to,” he said.
“And I also managed to spend some time in Kathmandu which I enjoyed.”

Langtang Valley:-

His first trek took him to ‘The North of Kathmandu’. A trip which started with a plane journey into the city courtesy of a Royal Nepalese flight, through a lightning storm.
Once there he made contact with the Highland Sherpa Trekking Agency and received the necessary permit for the 12-day trek to the Langtang Valley on the
Tibetan borders and back over high passes. He was also fortunate in obtaining the same guide, Ang Jangbu Sherpa who took him on his previous trek on a circuit of the Annapurna Himal.

Alan then spent two days enjoying the sights and spectacles of
Kathmandu before a crowded local bus took him and his party on a ten hour journey to Dhumche and the start of the trek.
After collecting more permits and an entrance ticket to the Langtang National Park, where all visitors have to be self sufficient in food and fuel, they bedded down.
“The first night was spent in a rude lodge, grandly titled ‘Hotel’, offering spartan facilities,” he recorded.
“These lodges are used by some for ‘Tea Shop Treks’ and, although inexpensive, are not generally to be recommended because of the high probability of contracting stomach or bed bugs."

For the first few days of the trek, he was walking through the remnants of the monsoon, but the weather cleared as they reached the village of Langtang with its 11,500 feet yak pastures.
They moved on to Yala peak at 16,500 feet before returning to the village where Alan distributed 600 rupees to both the medical station and  school.
"Although that is only about £15, it represents almost a full month’s salary for a teacher,” Alan explained.

Camp in Langtang Valley

Camp in Langtang Valley



Their journey continued through damp, leech-infested forests by day and hail and snow by night, enlivened by a visit to a local festival in the village of Sybru.
Through the ups and downs of the path, Alan was grateful for the help of his guides and porters. “During the trek I was constantly amazed at the load bearing ability of
Nima and Pirim Bahadur who, although small,  only about 5ft 6in and not particularly well built, carried up to 35kg / 90lbs and still skipped nimbly down the steep paths and
scarcely slowed on the ascents."

Everest Trek:-

For his next trek, Alan was to undergo a stomach churning trip on his way to Everest, “Goddess Mother of the World”.
“The plane climbed steadily over high terraced hillsides, everywhere strewn with scattered houses. To the north the giant snow scapped peaks of the Himalayas formed a
massive barrier with Tibet.
“Approaching from below, the plane bumped wildly up the sloping unsurfaced runway then swung sharply through 270 degrees to come to rest on a small flat area at the top end.
The passengers burst into spontaneous applause in sheer relief.”

This trek involved a great ascent to acclimitise Alan to the altitude before the rewarding glimpse of
Everest could be seen. Alan's trip was enlivened by unusual
sights including Yak caravans; an injured trekker being carried downhill on the back of a perspiring porter and the Mani Rimbu Buddhist festival in Thengboche.
Ritnalistic dances, in weird and colourful costumes and elaborate masks to the accompaniment of cymbals, drums and huge Tibetan ‘alpine homs’ lasted all morning and
afternoon concludingin the evening with traditional Sherpa dancing.”

Everest from Kala Pattar

Everest from Kala Pattar


The group continued, through the alleged habitat of the mythical Yeti, to their highest campsite at Lobuche ( 16,200 feet ) where they warmed themselves over
a surprisingly effective yak dung fire.
The next day they climbed to Kala Pattar at 18,200 feet for an awe-inspiring sight of
Everest in high spirits. These, however, were lessened at the news that a group leader of
another trekking party had succumbed to altitude sicknes and a Sirdar of a climbing group had slipped from a path to disappear without trace. A timely
reminder of the danger of trekking in the Himalayas.

Annapurna Sanctuary:-

The third trek took the party along the beautiful but treacherous route to the Annapurnas.
After several days difficult journey, Alan and his group reached the snow fields of Annapurna l where an ice axe and crampons were necessary
to make further progress.
“From our vantage points high in the centre of the Sanctuary the immensity of the surrounding mountains was awe-inspiring. The profound silence was
violated on occasion by the reverberating roar of an avalanche as huge blocks of snow and ice broke off and crashed, amidst billowing plumes
of spindrift, to the glaciers below.

Annapurna I from Rakshi Peak

Annapurna I from Rakshi Peak


“On the final day of the trek, a viewpoint from the ridgetop above Pokhara provided a superb Himalayan panorama extending from
Dhaulagiri (8l70m) in the West, through the Annapurnas and Maccapucchare, to Manaslu (8l60m) in the East. A fitting finale to a
spectacular l4 days.

During his three months stay, Alan distributed all of the £125 donated by Bearsden residents and explained that, in a country which
is still largely illiterate, they were well received.
“To see someone walk in from nowhere and hand them money, it knocked them flat on their backs,” he said.
The money went largely to schools and medical centres as well as to the Annapurna Conservation Project and the Cystal Club, self-help group.

Through meeting a large and varied number of fellow trekkers on the trip and hearing their tales, Alan’s appetite was whetted to go back but not for some time yet.
As he explained beore his most recent trip trekking can be an expensive business, and even now he had on occasion, to be thankful that even in the foothills
of the Himalayas, a Barclaycard will do very nicely.

Milngavie & Bearsden Herald, January 1989







Nepal Climbs & Treks : Nepal Peaks : International Mountaineering


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Nepal Guide Books & Maps:-



Nepal - Rough GuideLonely Planet Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurna Region Nepal Mountaineering Guide Trekking in the Everest RegionEverest: A Trekkers Guide Trekking in the Everest RegionTrekking in the Annapurna RegionTrekking in the Langtang & Helambu RegionKangchenjunga Trekkers GuideTrekking in Nepal - D'Abbundo

Rough Guide Nepal Lonely Planet - Kathmandu Map Kathmandu Valley Map Trekking and Climbing in NepalLonely Planet - Trekking in NepalThe Trekking Peaks of Nepal Trekking in NepalTrekking in the Everest Region

Rough Guide India Footprint Tibet Handbook Into Thin Air - John Pilkington Sepu Kangri Bonnington Alpine / Himalayan Climbing Into Thin Air - the Everest Disaster Climbing High - the Everest DisasterOn Top of the World - climbing the 14 highest mountains Nepal Mountaineering Guide

On Top of the World - Rebecca Stephens Seven Summits - Quest to reach the highest peaks Seven Summits Eric Shipton - Everest and beyond Edmund Hillary - View from the SummitKurt Diemberger OmnibusChris Bonington's Everest My Vertical World - Climbing the 8000m Peaks - Jerzy Kukuczka

History of Mountain Climbing Everest: The West Ridge Return to Everest - DVD Return to Everest - Video Lost on Everest - Video Conquest of Everest Everest: A Trekkers Guide The Climb - Anatoli BoukreevThe Naked Mountain - Reinhold Messner

Mountains of the Mind - A history.. Mountains of the Mind - ExperiencesEverest: Summit of AchievementEverest: 50th Anniversary VolumeEverest: Alone at the SummitThe Villain: Life of Don WhillansLeft for Dead: Journey Home from EverestTrekking in the Everest Region

Tilman: The 7 Mountain Travel Books Mountaineering: Freedom of the HillsRope Techniques: The complete guideHistory of Mountain ClimbingBelow another Sky by Rick RidgewayFacing Up; A journey to the summit of EverestEverest: To the Top Coronation Everest

Epic Stories of Survival on the World's Highest Peaks The Snow Leopard Himalayan Quest - the 8000m Giants Trekking in the Indian Himalaya Trekking and Climbing in the Indian Himalaya Nepal Trail Map - Nelles

World Mountaineering Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains Climb: Stories of SurvivalSherpas & Himalayan Mountaineering K2Cho Oyu










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